When you’re ready to move beyond just layering sheets of glass, stringers are one of the most versatile and exciting materials you can add to your studio. Think of them as your pen or paintbrush, allowing you to sketch designs, create patterns, and add a personal, hand-drawn touch to your work. From delicate jewelry to stunning wall art, the possibilities are endless. This comprehensive article will teach you how to use glass stringers in fusing, starting with the absolute basics. We’ll explore the different types of stringers, the tools you’ll need, and the step-by-step process for turning those thin glass strands into a beautiful finished piece.

Key Takeaways

• Always Match Your COE: This is the golden rule of glass fusing; mixing COEs (like 90 and 96) will cause your piece to crack from stress. For your design, use stringers to create the precise lines and details that you can’t get with other glass forms.
• Prep Your Glass for a Clean Fuse: Before firing, wipe down all your glass components with a cleaner to prevent bubbles and hazy spots caused by dust or oils. A tiny dot of diluted school glue is all you need to hold your stringer design in place as you move it to the kiln.
• Control Your Texture with Firing: Your kiln schedule determines the final look. Use a tack fuse for a raised, dimensional texture, or a full fuse for a smooth, glossy finish. Whichever you choose, a proper annealing cycle is non-negotiable for creating a strong, durable piece.

What Are Glass Stringers?

If you’re looking to add fine lines, intricate details, or crisp patterns to your fused glass art, glass stringers are about to become your best friend. Think of them as thin strands of glass, similar to spaghetti noodles, that you can use to literally draw on your glass. They allow for a level of precision that’s hard to achieve with other types of glass. Stringers typically come in different thicknesses, like a delicate 1mm for subtle outlines or a bolder 2mm for lines that really stand out. Using them is a fantastic way to add your unique handwriting to a piece, whether you’re outlining a flower petal or creating a complex geometric design.

Stringers vs. Frit, Confetti, and Powder

While all accessory glass adds character, each type plays a different role. Stringers are your tool for creating sharp, defined lines. In contrast, frit, which is crushed glass, is better for creating speckled textures or blended fields of color. Confetti (thin glass flakes) is great for adding pops of color and creating layered, watercolor-like effects, while powder is used for soft, painterly shading. While you can create amazing textures by layering these different forms, stringers are what you’ll reach for when you need control and precision for drawing and outlining your designs.

Standard vs. Twisted Stringers

As you start exploring, you’ll notice two main types of stringers: standard and twisted. Standard stringers are smooth, solid rods of a single color. They are your workhorse for creating clean, consistent lines and are perfect for any design that calls for solid outlines or details. Twisted stringers, on the other hand, are made from two or more colors twisted together, creating a candy cane effect. These add an incredible amount of visual interest and texture to your work. The spiral design can create a sense of movement and depth, making them a fun way to add a little extra flair to your piece.

Exploring Your Color and Style Options

One of the best parts of working with stringers is the sheer variety available. You can find them in a huge range of colors, from transparent to opaque, and in iridescent and dichroic styles. This means you can always find the perfect match for your project’s color palette. You aren’t limited by their length, either. You can easily snip them down to whatever size you need for your design. By combining different colors, thicknesses, and types of stringers, you can create incredibly detailed and dynamic glass art that is completely your own.

Why COE Compatibility Is Crucial

Here’s the single most important rule in glass fusing: all the glass in your project must have the same Coefficient of Expansion, or COE. The COE measures how much glass expands when heated and shrinks when cooled. If you mix glass with different COEs, like COE90 and COE96, your piece will crack under the stress as it cools. This isn’t a suggestion; it’s a law of physics in the kiln. Always double-check that your stringers, sheet glass, and any other glass elements share the same COE to ensure your beautiful creation makes it out of the kiln in one piece.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

Before you start creating beautiful designs with stringers, it’s important to gather the right materials and set up your workspace. Think of it as preparing your canvas. A little prep work goes a long way in making the fusing process smooth and fun, ensuring your final piece turns out just as you imagined. Let’s walk through exactly what you’ll need to have on hand.

Choosing Your Stringers: COE90 vs. COE96

The most important rule in glass fusing is to use glass with a matching Coefficient of Expansion, or COE. This number tells you how much the glass will expand and contract when heated and cooled. If you mix different COEs, your piece will likely crack from the stress. So, always use glass that has the same expansion rate. Check this information when you buy your glass.

Stringers, like frits and powders, let you add detailed designs and textures that you can’t get by just layering sheets of glass. Whether you’re working with COE90 glass or COE96, make sure your stringers match your base glass. This simple step is the key to a strong, lasting piece of art.

Essential Cutting Tools and Safety Gear

Working with glass requires a few specific tools to get clean, precise cuts. You’ll need a glass cutter for scoring, running pliers to separate the glass along the score, and breaking or grozing pliers for nipping away small pieces and refining shapes. Having the right tools makes the process much easier and gives you more control over your design.

More importantly, always prioritize your safety. Wear protective eyeglasses to shield your eyes from tiny glass shards. When you’re handling a hot kiln, heat-resistant gloves are a must. A dust mask or respirator is also crucial to avoid inhaling fine glass dust. And it’s always a good idea to keep a first-aid kit handy, just in case.

How to Set Up Your Workspace

A clean workspace is a happy workspace, especially in glass fusing. Always work in a clean area and thoroughly clean your glass with a lint-free cloth and glass cleaner before you start. Dust, fingerprints, or oils can cause unwanted bubbles or hazy spots in your finished piece, so taking a moment to wipe everything down is well worth the effort.

Next, prepare your kiln shelf to prevent your masterpiece from sticking. You can do this by applying a few thin, even coats of kiln wash to the shelf, letting each coat dry completely. This creates a protective barrier between the glass and the shelf. Alternatively, you can use kiln paper. A properly prepared shelf or mold ensures your project releases easily after firing.

How to Prepare Your Glass Stringers

Before you can create those beautiful, intricate designs, a little prep work is in order. Properly preparing your glass stringers is one of the most important steps to ensure your final piece comes out of the kiln looking clean, crisp, and just how you envisioned it. Taking the time to cut, clean, and secure your stringers will help you avoid common issues like shifting designs or unwanted bubbles. Think of it as setting the foundation for a successful firing. Let’s walk through the simple steps to get your stringers ready for the kiln.

Safely Cutting Stringers to Size

Glass stringers are quite delicate, so you’ll want to handle them with care. The easiest way to cut them to your desired length is with a pair of wheeled glass nippers. Simply score the stringer where you want the break and gently snap it. Always wear safety glasses when cutting glass, as tiny shards can fly off. For more intricate, curved designs, you can gently bend stringers using the heat from a candle flame or a small torch. Hold the stringer above the flame, not in it, and slowly guide it into the shape you want. This technique gives you incredible control for creating flowing lines and organic shapes in your artwork. Having the right glass cutting tools makes this process much smoother.

Cleaning and Handling Your Stringers

A clean project is a happy project. Dust, fingerprints, and oils from your hands can cause frustrating issues like bubbles or hazy spots in your finished piece. Before placing your stringers, make sure your base glass and the stringers themselves are spotless. I recommend wiping everything down with a lint-free cloth and a glass cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Work in a clean area to prevent dust from settling on your glass as you build your design. This simple step is one of the best habits you can build as a glass artist and will save you a lot of headaches later. It ensures your colors fire true and your final piece is crystal clear.

Securing Stringers to Your Base Glass

Once your stringers are cut and cleaned, you need to make sure they stay put on their journey to the kiln. The last thing you want is for your carefully placed design to shift out of place. A tiny bit of glue is all you need to hold everything together. A popular and effective choice is regular Elmer’s school glue mixed in a 50/50 ratio with water. Use a toothpick or a fine-tipped brush to apply a very small dot of the diluted glue to your base glass before setting the stringer on top. Remember, less is more here. The glue will burn off cleanly inside the kiln, leaving no residue behind.

Creative Techniques for Using Glass Stringers

Once you have your workspace set up and your materials ready, the real fun begins. Glass stringers are incredibly versatile, acting like a pen or a paintbrush for your glass fusing projects. They allow you to add a level of detail and personality that’s difficult to achieve with sheet glass alone. Whether you’re aiming for crisp geometric patterns or soft, organic curves, these techniques will help you get the most out of your stringers. Let’s explore some creative ways to incorporate them into your work.

Draw Fine Lines and Detailed Designs

Think of glass stringers as your drawing tool. These thin, spaghetti-like strands of glass are perfect for creating fine lines, intricate patterns, and crisp outlines on your artwork. You can lay them down to sketch out a scene, write a name, or add delicate features like whiskers on an animal or veins on a leaf. Simply break the glass stringers into the lengths you need and arrange them on your base glass. This technique gives you precise control, allowing you to produce detailed designs that would be impossible to cut from a sheet of glass. It’s a fantastic way to add a personal, hand-drawn touch to your fused pieces.

Create Patterns and Geometric Art

Stringers are ideal for building structured, geometric designs. You can arrange them in repeating patterns like grids, chevrons, or sunbursts to create visually striking art. Use a ruler and a fine-tip marker on your base glass to draw guidelines for perfect placement. By laying stringers side-by-side, you can create bold stripes or build complex mosaics. This method is perfect for making coasters, decorative tiles, or abstract panels. Combining different colors can add another layer of complexity, resulting in a piece that feels both orderly and dynamic. The precision of stringers makes them a go-to for any project that requires clean lines and symmetry.

Layer Stringers with Frit and Sheet Glass

Don’t be afraid to mix your materials. Layering stringers with other forms of glass, like frit and powders, can create incredible depth and texture. Start with a solid sheet of COE90 glass as your canvas. You can then sprinkle on fine or medium frit to create a speckled or textured background before placing your stringers on top to define the main design. This technique is especially effective for creating landscapes, where frit can represent sand or water and stringers can form trees or buildings. The different glass forms will melt together in the kiln, creating a multi-dimensional piece with rich visual interest.

Bend Stringers with a Flame for Curved Shapes

While stringers are rigid at room temperature, you can easily bend them into graceful curves with a little heat. All you need is a simple candle or a small torch. Using tweezers to hold the stringer, gently pass it through the flame until it becomes pliable. You can then shape it into swirls, loops, or flowing lines for more organic designs. This is perfect for creating script lettering, floral patterns, or whimsical flourishes. Just be careful not to overheat the glass, and always work in a well-ventilated area. Once bent, let the stringer cool completely before placing it on your project.

Choose Between Tack Fusing and Full Fusing

The firing schedule you choose in your kiln will dramatically change the final look of your stringer design. A tack fuse uses a lower temperature, which allows the stringers to stick to the base glass while remaining raised and textured. This creates a dimensional, tactile surface that you can feel. In contrast, a full fuse uses a higher temperature that melts all the glass components together into a single, smooth, and glossy piece. Your stringer design will become one with the base glass. Neither method is better than the other; the right choice simply depends on the aesthetic you want for your finished artwork.

Mix Colors to Create Unique Effects

One of the best parts of working with stringers is playing with color. You can combine different colored stringers to create shading, gradients, or vibrant, eye-catching patterns. For example, you can lay several shades of blue side-by-side to depict flowing water or blend reds, oranges, and yellows for a fiery sunset. The key is to ensure all your glass materials have the same Coefficient of Expansion (COE). Mixing different COEs, like putting COE96 glass on a COE90 base, will cause your piece to crack during cooling due to incompatible expansion rates. Always check that your stringers, frit, and sheet glass are all compatible before firing.

Finding the Right Firing Schedule

Once your design is ready, it’s time for the magic to happen inside the kiln. Your firing schedule is the recipe your kiln follows to heat and cool the glass, and getting it right is key to a successful project. The schedule you choose will depend on the type of glass you’re using (like COE90 glass), the size of your piece, and the final look you want to achieve.

A full fuse will melt your stringers flat into the base glass for a smooth, glossy surface. A tack fuse, on the other hand, uses lower temperatures to preserve the raised, linear texture of the stringers. Think of the following schedules as starting points. Every kiln is unique, so you’ll want to fine-tune them based on your own tests and results. Keeping a kiln log is a great habit to get into; it helps you track what works and what doesn’t so you can repeat your successes.

Sample Full Fuse Schedule

A full fuse creates a single, smooth piece of glass by melting all the layers completely together. This is perfect for projects like plates or coasters. For a basic full fuse using two layers of 3mm glass, a good starting point is a multi-step schedule. For example: heat at 500°F per hour to 1050°F and hold for one hour, then ramp up to 1455°F and hold for 10 minutes. After that, you’ll cool it as quickly as your kiln allows down to the annealing phase. This schedule ensures the glass heats evenly and fuses properly without trapping air bubbles.

Sample Tack Fuse Schedule for Texture

If you want your stringers to keep their distinct, rounded shape on the surface of your glass, a tack fuse is the way to go. This technique is fantastic for adding dimension and texture to your art. To achieve a tack fuse, you’ll use a lower top temperature than you would for a full fuse. By not getting the glass quite as hot, the stringers will stick to the base but won’t melt down completely. You’ll still need to follow a controlled heating and cooling cycle, but capping the temperature around 1350°F is often enough to create that beautiful, textured effect.

Understanding Hold Times and Annealing

Two of the most important parts of any firing schedule are hold times and annealing. A “hold” is simply a pause at a specific temperature to allow the heat to distribute evenly throughout the glass. This is especially important for larger pieces. After the glass reaches its top temperature, it needs to cool down slowly in a controlled way. This process, called annealing, is essential for removing internal stress from the glass. Skipping or rushing the annealing phase can cause your beautiful piece to crack hours, or even days, after it comes out of the kiln.

Why You Should Always Run a Test Fire

Before you commit a large or complex project to the kiln, it’s always a smart idea to run a small test fire. Think of it as insurance for your time and materials. Some glass colors, especially when using different types of COE96 glass, can react in unexpected ways in the kiln, and a test helps you avoid any unwanted surprises. Firing a small sample piece with your chosen stringers and base glass allows you to confirm your firing schedule, check for color reactions, and make sure you’ll get the exact effect you’re hoping for.

How to Prevent Bubbles and Firing Issues

There’s nothing more frustrating than pulling a piece from the kiln only to find it riddled with tiny, unwanted bubbles. These little imperfections can cloud your design and take away from the clean, professional finish you worked so hard to create. The good news is that most bubbles are caused by trapped air or contaminants, and you can prevent them with a few simple adjustments to your process. It’s all about giving that air a place to go and ensuring your glass is perfectly clean before it ever goes into the

By paying attention to how you place your design elements, how you prepare your glass, and how you set up your kiln, you can dramatically reduce the chances of bubbles appearing. Think of it as setting your project up for success from the very beginning. We’ll walk through a few key strategies that address the most common causes of firing issues, so your next piece comes out smooth, clear, and exactly as you envisioned.

Stop Bubbles from Forming Under Stringers

One of the biggest culprits for trapped air is the space underneath design elements like stringers and frit. When you lay a stringer onto a solid piece of base glass, you create a tiny pocket of air. As the kiln heats up, that air expands and gets trapped as the glass softens, forming a bubble. An easy way to avoid this is to give the air an escape route.

When you’re creating your design, try to extend your stringers or frit so they run all the way to the edge of your base glass. This simple trick creates a small channel that allows trapped air to vent out from underneath before the edges of the glass seal shut. It’s a brilliant and simple way to ensure a smooth, bubble-free surface, especially when working with intricate line work on a solid piece of COE90 glass.

Working with Designs Near the Edge

Whether your design is intricate or simple, its success often comes down to preparation. Even microscopic bits of dust, lint, or oil from your fingerprints can cause issues during firing. As these contaminants burn off in the kiln, they can create bubbles or leave behind a hazy, cloudy spot on your finished piece. This is why it’s so important to work in a clean area and handle your glass carefully.

Before you start assembling your project, get in the habit of thoroughly cleaning every glass component. Use a quality glass cleaner and a lint-free cloth to wipe down the front, back, and edges of your sheet glass and any decorative pieces. This small step makes a huge difference in achieving a crystal-clear result and preventing unexpected blemishes in your final design.

Ensure Your Kiln Shelf is Level

Your firing process begins before you even turn the kiln on. Start by making sure your kiln shelf is perfectly flat and level. If your shelf is sloped, the molten glass can flow unevenly as it heats up, which can lead to distortion in your design or trap air in thicker areas. Use a small bubble level to check your shelf and make any necessary adjustments.

You can also adjust your firing schedule to help release trapped air. Firing at a slightly lower temperature for a longer period, often called a “bubble squeeze,” gives air more time to escape before the glass fully melts. If you’re firing multiple pieces at once, leave small gaps between them on the shelf. This also provides a path for air and moisture to vent away from your projects. Taking these extra moments to prepare your kiln properly will save you from disappointment later.

Troubleshooting Common Stringer Problems

Even the most carefully planned project can hit a snag in the kiln. It’s a completely normal part of working with glass, so don’t get discouraged. Most common issues with stringers are easy to fix once you know what to look for. Think of these little challenges as learning opportunities that will make you a more confident artist. From stringers that won’t stay put to colors that do their own thing, we’ll walk through some frequent problems and how to solve them.

What to Do When Stringers Shift During Firing

It’s frustrating to open your kiln and find that your perfectly placed stringer design has moved. This often happens when air gets trapped under the glass and pushes things around as it tries to escape during heating. One simple trick is to extend your design elements, like stringers or frit, all the way to the edge of your base glass. This creates tiny channels for air to vent out the sides, resulting in a smoother, more stable fuse. If your design is centered, make sure your stringers are secured with a very small amount of glue so they don’t slide on the base glass as it becomes molten.

How to Fix Unexpected Color Bleeding

Have you ever pulled a piece from the kiln to find that your colors have bled into each other or changed entirely? This is usually due to a chemical reaction between the elements in different glass colors, especially when certain reds, yellows, and blues are placed next to each other. Some glass is specifically designed to be reactive, while other reactions are a surprise. The best way to prevent unwanted color bleeding is to run a small test fire. Fuse tiny pieces of your chosen colors together on a scrap piece of base glass. This lets you see exactly how they will interact before you commit to a large project.

The Dangers of Mixing Incompatible COEs

This is one rule in glass fusing you can’t bend: always use glass with the same Coefficient of Expansion (COE). COE measures how much glass expands when hot and shrinks when cool. If you fuse glass with different COEs, like COE90 and COE96, they will shrink at different rates. This creates immense internal stress, causing your piece to crack. The break might happen dramatically in the kiln or appear days or even weeks later. To avoid this heartbreak, keep your glass scraps and sheets clearly labeled and stored separately. Always double-check the COE before you start a new project.

Using the Right Amount of Glue

A little bit of glue can be your best friend for holding delicate stringer arrangements in place before firing. However, the key is to use it sparingly. Too much glue can burn off during firing and leave behind a cloudy residue called devitrification, or “devit,” on your glass. It can also trap gases and cause bubbles. The best approach is to apply a few tiny dots of a water-soluble glue, like standard white school glue, with the tip of a toothpick. You only need enough to keep the stringer from rolling away as you move your project to the kiln. The glue will burn off cleanly if you use a minimal amount.

Why You Can’t Skip the Annealing Step

After reaching its top temperature, your glass needs to cool down in a slow, controlled manner. This critical cooling phase is called annealing. It relieves the internal stress that builds up in the glass as it melts and fuses, making the final piece strong and stable. If you skip annealing or cool the glass too quickly, that stress remains locked inside, making it extremely fragile and likely to crack over time. Thankfully, most modern kilns come with reliable pre-set firing schedules that include a proper annealing phase. Trust the process and resist the urge to open the kiln early to peek. Patience here is essential for a lasting piece of art.

Finishing and Shaping Your Piece

Once your stringer design has been fully fused, the real magic begins. This is where you transform your flat panel into a functional or sculptural piece of art. The two main ways to do this are slumping, which involves another trip to the kiln, and coldworking, which refers to any shaping you do by hand or with tools once the glass is cool. These final steps are what will give your project a truly professional and polished look.

Slumping Your Design into a Mold

Slumping is the process of re-firing your flat, fused piece over a form to give it a three-dimensional shape, like a bowl, platter, or decorative wave. To do this, you’ll place your finished stringer panel on top of a prepared mold and fire it at a lower temperature than you used for the full fuse. The heat will soften the glass just enough for it to sink, or slump, into the shape of the mold.

If your stringer design has a lot of open space, you might notice the edges can get a little wavy during slumping. A great way to prevent this is to first fuse your stringer design onto a solid base of two full sheets of glass. This creates a sturdy foundation that holds its shape beautifully as it slumps.

Coldworking for a Professional Finish

Coldworking refers to all the finishing work you do after the glass has completely cooled. This can include grinding sharp edges, polishing for a brilliant shine, or even sandblasting for a matte finish. These final touches are what truly distinguish a finished piece of art. If you have any stubborn kiln wash left on your piece after slumping, a light sandblasting can help clean it off before you do a final fire polish.

Before you begin any coldworking, make sure your workspace is clean. Always handle your piece with care, and clean your COE90 glass thoroughly with a lint-free cloth and glass cleaner. Any dust, fingerprints, or oils left on the surface can interfere with the final polish, potentially causing hazy spots or other blemishes.

Project Ideas to Spark Your Creativity

Now that you have the techniques down, it’s time for the fun part: deciding what to make! Glass stringers are incredibly versatile, opening up a world of creative possibilities. Whether you’re crafting tiny, detailed pieces or large, expressive panels, stringers can add that special touch. Here are a few project ideas to get your creative wheels turning.

Unique Fused Glass Jewelry

Stringers are perfect for creating one-of-a-kind jewelry. Because they are so thin, you can use them to “draw” fine lines and intricate patterns on a small glass base. Think of them as your pen for creating delicate floral designs on a pendant or sharp geometric patterns for a pair of earrings. You can create soft color blends and interesting surfaces that make each piece a tiny work of art. Try layering different colors of stringers on a piece of COE90 glass to add depth and dimension to your jewelry designs.

Custom Plates and Platters

Ready to make something functional? You can use stringers to decorate custom plates, bowls, and platters. For a clean, straight edge on your final piece, it’s a good idea to first fuse two full sheets of glass together to create a solid base. Then, arrange your stringer design on top. You can either tack fuse the stringers for a raised, textural feel or full fuse them for a smooth, glossy finish. Once your design is fused, you can place it into one of your molds to slump it into its final shape.

Stunning Wall Art Panels

If you want to go big, stringers can help you create breathtaking wall art. Their delicate nature lends an ethereal, light, and airy look to larger panels, especially when the light shines through them. You can arrange stringers in flowing, organic lines or create a structured mosaic-like pattern. Don’t be afraid to experiment by combining stringers with frit and other glass elements. Firing these larger pieces requires a reliable kiln that can handle the size and ensure a proper annealing cycle, resulting in a durable and beautiful piece of art for your home.

Related Articles

• Fused Glass Stringers 101: A Complete Guide
• Glass Stringers COE 90: The Ultimate Artist’s Guide
• COE 90 Stringer Glass: A Complete Fusing Guide
• Fused Glass Circles: Trends, Techniques & Sustainable Art

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the easiest way to bend stringers into curved shapes if I don’t own a torch? You don’t need fancy equipment to create beautiful curves. A simple candle flame works perfectly. Using tweezers to hold the stringer, gently and slowly pass it above the flame, not directly in it, until it becomes soft and pliable. You can then shape it into swirls, loops, or any organic line you need. Just work in a well-ventilated area and let the stringer cool completely before you place it on your base glass.

Why do my stringers look raised and bumpy after firing instead of smooth? This is likely because you did a tack fuse instead of a full fuse. A tack fuse uses a lower kiln temperature, which is just hot enough to stick the stringers to the base glass while preserving their rounded, linear texture. If you want a completely smooth, glossy surface where the stringers are melted flat, you need to use a full fuse schedule, which reaches a higher temperature. The choice just depends on the final look you want for your art.

I’m worried about my stringer design shifting. How much glue should I actually use? The key here is to use as little glue as possible. Too much can cause bubbles or leave a cloudy residue on your glass. I recommend mixing white school glue with water in a 50/50 ratio. Then, use the very tip of a toothpick to apply a few tiny dots of the mixture to your base glass right before you place the stringer. You only need enough to prevent the stringer from rolling as you move the project to the kiln.

Why are there tiny bubbles trapped in a line right under my stringers? Those bubbles are almost always caused by trapped air. When you lay a stringer on a solid piece of glass, you create a tiny air pocket. As the kiln heats up, that air expands and gets trapped when the glass softens. The best way to prevent this is to give the air an escape route. Try to arrange your design so the stringers run all the way to the edge of the base glass, creating a small channel for the air to vent out.

Do I really need to do a test fire before starting a big project? I know it can feel like an extra step, but I promise it’s worth it. A small test fire is the best way to prevent surprises. Some glass colors can have unexpected chemical reactions in the kiln, changing color or creating odd textures where they meet. A test fire lets you see exactly how your chosen colors and your firing schedule will work together, saving you from potentially wasting a lot of time and beautiful glass on a final piece.